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The Gifts in the Shacklands

September 28, 2018 By Admin

Saam Niami Jalinous

All names in this article were altered to protect the altered to protect the privacy of those included.

My host brother Tau walking into the Shacklands; taken two weeks after this article was written

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s midnight. I’m with my host brother, Tau, and his friends. They’re all at least five years older than me. They were surprised to find out that I’m only twenty. So far, I’ve impressed them enough with a fashion sense they call “Hollywood,” along with my stories of California and New York, their equivalent to Shangri-La and El Dorado. We’re walking down a hill into the “Shacklands”, the informal settlements outside of Cato Manor. We’re on our way to find a gram of marijuana—or “dagga” in South African slang—paid for with a fistful of R5 in change.

Earlier, my brother asked me for a loan of R200. He seemed desperate: he had taken a loan from someone else a couple months ago and they are keeping his phone as collateral. It specifically says in the program handbook not to give loans to family members; but I am more curious to see where it will take me than worried about getting paid back. He has shown me a number of good times at this point, so I see it less of a loan and more a down payment on the next adventure.

We have to trek down a steep hill to reach the settlements. They make fun of me on the way down. “There’s no Uber in the Shacklands.” I hold my ground. I’m not going to show them I’m scared. I can’t risk exclusion from future exploits.

I end up in the back on the way down. Once we reach the settlement, the two friends in front of me wait for me to pass and join the single file line behind me. I realize as we are walking that I’m an easy target; the locals would most likely assume I’m an Indian who is lost.

If anything goes wrong, one of two things will happen: my brother will tell me what to do and I’ll do it; or, none of them will know what to do and I’m in trouble. So, I just keep quiet and enjoy the scenery.

The shacks are placed closely together with little patches over open areas between a few a time, making for communal recreational areas. I’m not sure whether this was intentional or a product of a rush to build; but the children who run around from house to house during the day tells me that there’s little concern for designated space.

The shacks are all shades and colors, making up for the lack of distinguishable difference between the individual designs. There’s no road between the houses, only little pathways created by the erosion of feet rather than industrial tools.

Before getting the dagga, we stop by a shack. My brother is the only one to go inside. I’m confused as to what is going on. There’s a lot of yelling in Zulu, but as it usually goes here, it’s followed by laughing.

“The Party Shack”; taken two weeks after this essay was written

“We have lots of parties here,” one says. “We go for three days at a time. Nonstop. Ecstasy. You can go forever.”

My brother waves at me to come inside. There are two naked women under the covers of a bed. Two small children are playing on top of them. My brother introduces me. He picks up one of the children. “This is my daughter,” he says. “Don’t tell Mama.”

I don’t know whether to believe him or not.

The inside of the shack doesn’t look especially different from the houses in Cato Manor. There are definite faults in the structural integrity: the roof, which is made from large metal sheets, doesn’t meet the walls. Inside the cavities there is a variety of trash and general storage. And, just like the houses in Cato Manor, there’s a large television in the center of the home that is on, and all in the home are passively paying attention to the flashes on the screen.

Someone comes by and drops off Tau’s phone. He shrieks with joy and kisses it. He turns to me, “Brother, two months, two months with no phone. Two months not texting ladies. No cheating for two months, damn!” They all laugh. I laugh as well, but I’m unsure if I feel comfortable enabling his cheating on his girlfriend. I decide it’s none of my business.

Tau walking into a shack to buy dagga; taken two weeks after this article was written

 

 

We walk up the hill to an alleyway between the houses. Only one of the friends goes in with the R5 in change. I’m looking over the vast expanse of houses.

“They were all built in two months,” says his friend Themba. I give him an expression of shock. Surely I misheard him. “No,” he says, “this all used to be bush. They came in, built the houses, and refused to leave. The government told everyone to leave, but they refused.” He pointed to the power lines that run through all of the shacks. “All of the energy is stolen as well, and the water. All stolen from Cato Manor.”

The more I think about it, the more overwhelmed I become by the beauty. Considering the contrast between the slow-moving monster that is the South African government and the colossal undertaking of building an entire village from scraps and stolen resources in just two months.

“It takes smart people to steal this much resources,” quips Themba. “You can’t build a city if you’re a degenerate.”

My entire view on it all shifts. It is a true marvel of the uniquely human trait of the stubborn will to survive.

Tau asks me why I’m so quiet.

“I’m taking it all in,” I tell him.

 

We make it back into Cato Manor. As most of my nights with Tau end up, the group of us show up announced at a friend’s house. The most tangible similarity between Tau and all of his friends is that they are in their late twenties and live in small shacks behind their parents’ homes. This isn’t especially foreign to me; there’s a similar expectation that children should be allowed to live at home into their maturity within Persian culture. But, the significance lies in how much they all wish to be somewhere else.

A factory of joints is created without a word. Three different boys at a time are rolling with precision and grace. They light up. The small shack is filled with the five of us who came in and the six others who were there before. Smoke quickly fills the air, mixed with the smell of switcher cigarettes that Tau and I share.

It’s a trend in their group to buy dagga in small, cheap quantities, rather than buying in bulk. It would make more time-conscious to buy it in bulk; but the strategy, usually, is to scrape together R5 from wherever they may. The strategy both makes for a cheaper buying pattern and one of restraint. If they bought in bulk, they’d most likely smoke the whole bag in one go, because a smoke sesh will usually end as soon as the cache is dry.

As usual, they begin to ask me about California, California wealth, and California girls as we watch television. I offer them what I can, sprinkling in hyperbole when appropriate. My role in these hangouts is often that of a foreign storyteller rather than a local assimilate; although, they appreciate my presence nonetheless.

Their romanticized view of America—the beaches, the bikinis—begins to wear on me. I explain to them that America is only coated in gold. I bring up Plato’s Cave Allegory to them, explaining that South Africans are only offered shadows—or, perhaps, blinding lights—of what America is like. I explain the War on Drugs, the intense poverty among blacks, the racism, and the trials of being immigrants in an imperialist nation as my family has experienced. They get more serious. This is an intelligent group. We discuss class and the future of society whose threads are strained by wealth disparity, a topic we can all speak on with abundance.

“All people are Africans,” says Themba. “We all came from this continent. Civilization began in Africa, but we’re made to believe that history began as soon as the white people arrived. A white line has been drawn between centuries of innovation and colonization, and everything before the white line has been thrown away. Hell, even Jesus Christ is presented as a white man. But Jesus was a Jew from the desert!” He laughs and points at me. “He probably looked more like you than the white man we’re made to believe he is! I’d believe he was black before I believe he was white!”

 

I begin to fall asleep, which is usually how the night ends: the American needs his sleep. As Tau and I leave, we share handshakes with all in the shack, a special South African-brand they taught me.

“Goodbye, goodbye, goodbyyyyyye Sipo! Until the next time!” Yells one, who is extremely high on coke. Sipo is the Zulu name Tau gave me earlier in the day. It means “gift”; although, I can’t help but wonder if I am the gift, or I give the gifts. For now, I’ll settle for both.

 

 

Saam Niami Jalinous

News of the Day: September 28, 2018

September 28, 2018 By Admin

Will SA turn Mandela’s language of peace into action?

 

News of the Day

Photo of the Day: September 28, 2018

September 28, 2018 By Admin

SIT South Africa Students had the opportunity to Skype with freedom fighter and former Constitutional Court judge, Albie Sachs. Sachs, who had his arm blown off in a car bomb in Mozambique due to his opposition to the apartheid regime in South Africa, authored the South African constitution, arguably the most progressive in the world.

 

Photo: Natalie Elliott

Photo of the Day

News of the Day: September 27, 2018

September 27, 2018 By Admin

Two thirds of reserved judgments in SA courts are late

News of the Day

Photo of the Day: September 26, 2018

September 26, 2018 By Admin

Sibongiseni Khumalo is an activist at Durban’s Gay and Lesbian Centre, working to combat homophobic violence and social and economic discrimination against homosexuals in South Africa.

Photo of the Day

Photo of the Day: September 24, 2018

September 25, 2018 By Admin

Colorful rows of batik paintings hang on the outskirts of Feima Market in Maputo, Mozambique. For those hoping to purchase a unique handmade souvenir to remember their Mozambican experience, they will also find basketry, African clothing, and a wide array of woodworked items. Photo: Francine Barchett

Photo of the Day

Photo of the Day: September 25, 2018

September 25, 2018 By Admin

What can beat the thrill of a horse race at Durban’s Greyville Race Course on a Sunday afternoon? Situated at the bottom of Berea and enclosing Royal Durban Golf Club’s championship course, Greyville looks to be among Durban’s local gems but historically has only profited Africa’s elite. Photo: Francine Barchett

Photo of the Day

A South Coast Excursion

September 23, 2018 By Admin

Students begin their 6-mile trek along the sandy and scenic coast.

By Kelly Vinett

All morning, weather channels threaten a downpour on the Eastern Cape. Despite the grey skies highlighting the ocean’s azure, this site is nearly picture-perfect. Waves whip like a boomerang even at low tide. Post-card perfect in subtropical beauty, the South Coast has more to offer than meets the modern tourist’s eye.

We are on a hike, just outside the seaside town of Port Edward, on the South Coast of Kwa-Zulu Natal, where it meets the Eastern Cape.

Fellow student Francine Barchett who speaks to Mbotho as we hike tells me some of his story afterwards: He was an environmental manager for the filming who made sure that the forest was able to return to its original condition, she says.

“They removed lots of trees and plants before the filming and they returned them in the same exact condition through a GPS system—in the same exact place.”

Remains of the “Blood Diamond” set.

Remnants of the movie set flank the inland path, looking more like ancient ruins than structures built for modern media. Tropical winds and rain have weathered them beyond repair.

They sit now among the remnants of a much older history.

“What I learned on the hike was about the [once] active volcanoes that were near South Africa… I didn’t know there would be lapilli that were on the beach itself,” Carrie Baker, another student studying abroad in Durban, said.

Lapilli are ancient, large spheres of volcanic magma that sit stagnant in the sand. Baker describes this phenomenon for geological amateurs.

“They look like [malt-ball candy] whoppers. If you take a whopper and make it sixty-four times the size, they’re these giant brown balls of magma.”

Mbotho tells us an anecdote from his childhood, about a fossil he and his friends serendipitously came upon at the shore.

“We were playing drums on this fossilized sea turtle. All of a sudden, we shattered the shell,” he said.

Mbotho points out in the thousands-of-years-old fossil the man-made bowling-ball sized fissure— a total accident, of course.

Also, Barchett reveals that the South Coast is home to groundbreaking anthropological discoveries.  

“At this exact place at the South Coast where we were walking, that was where [some of] the first humans came from,” Barchett said.

The sky grows darker as we walk away from the shore. Mbotho points out a cow skeleton carcass, freshly killed, probably by a mamba snake, he says. Although a morbid moment, we are reminded of the inescapable circle of life.

The cave acts as a looking glass into the ocean.

 

Published/Broadcast Stories

Photo of the Day: September 20, 2018

September 18, 2018 By Admin

Pictured is an acacia tree standing solitary before a looming storm on the South Coast in Port Edward, Eastern Cape. Known for its subtropical flora, fauna, and wildlife, this is seaside site attracts both tourists and citizens of South Africa.

Photo of the Day

Beating the Odds: Zama Kunene lives up to her given name

September 18, 2018 By Admin

By Natalie Elliott 

 

What can a name tell you about the person it belongs to? For Zama Kunene, it means she will never stop trying.

Zulu names reflect the parents’ expectations and hopes for their child, and are given before birth, according to the African Studies Center.

Emelda Kunene was married for eight years, but the marriage fell apart because they waited too long to have kids.

Then, she met Zama’s father.

“When I met Zama’s father, in just one visit, Zama was made. I was just trying life again. That’s why I called her Zama,” Emelda said.

In isiZulu, Zama means “try”, and she wanted her daughter to live up to her name.

Zama takes a break from studying at Mojo’s Car Wash, a popular place to get drinks and listen to music in Cato Manor.

Zama is 19 years old now, and is the first in her family to attend college. She is in her second year at the South Africa Maritime School and Transport College, studying logistics. She hopes to work as a logistics coordinator for a major company like Hamburg Sud.

The road to get to this point, however, was not always smooth. Zama faced many challenges to get into college. She first applied to the Durban University of Technology (DUT), but waited and waited…

“Waiting for my application to go through [at DUT] was just way too long…the decision should have been made” Zama said.

According to Zama, the delay in processing her application was due in part to the #FeesMustFall protests that had erupted on South African Campuses in 2015. These student-led protests were aimed at lowering university fees and increasing government funding.

Aside from logistics and shipping, one of Zama’s biggest passions is fashion, which can be seen through her sense of style.

Zama was faced with two choices: she could continue waiting for DUT to get back

to her and lose a year in her education, or she could apply to another university.

She chose to apply to a private university, something that had never been on her radar before, due to both financial and systemic odds against her. In the township high schools of South Africa, only 20% of pupils make it to university. But Zama tried, like she had every other time, even when others doubted her.

“Because of how I act, a lot of people thought I would be a certain person, or maybe have a kid by now…I am proud that I was able to finish high school and now I am on the track to graduate [from college],” Zama said.

She chose to try even though nobody else in her family had gone to college. She chose to try even though her high school did not prepare her. She chose to try, even when she faced financial challenges.

She chose to live up to her name and try. And Zama is not only trying, she is succeeding.

Natalie Elliott

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Reporting South Africa is produced by US college and university students on an SIT Study Abroad program called “South Africa: Social and Political Transformation”. They are mentored by veteran journalists in a program applying technology and global consciousness to produce high-impact journalism on vital social issues.

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