Patel’s created the original bunny chow, Durban’s famous dish, and still makes the best bunny in Durban. They have been serving bunny, made of a carved out loaf of bread with spicy vegetable curry in the center, for over 85 years. In the middle of down town Durban, this hole-in-a-wall restaurant is where to find some of the most delicious food in the city. And you must eat the bunny the way it was meant to be eaten, without utensils. Rip the four corners of the loaf and use the bread as your fork!
Hair Policy in South African Schools
One of the earliest conversations I had with my homestay sister after arriving in Durban was around education. When I asked her what was one thing she would change about her school, without hesitation; she said the ‘hair code’.
In August of 2016 protests at the prestigious Pretoria Girls High School sparked a hashtag, #StopRacismAtPretoriaGirlsHigh, that went viral, trending worldwide. The protests were in response to school’s the hair code, which states that students may not wear their hair in wide cornrows, braids, or dreadlocks.
Historically, Pretoria Girls was an all white school under the apartheid regime. It began admitting black students in the mid- 90s. In support of the hair code, some educators have argued that the hair dress code deters personal expression that may take the focus away from learning. However, while the hair code never explicitly singles out Afro- textured hair, it does not limit straight hair styles to such a degree and with such specific detail.
South Africa’s minister of arts and culture, Nathi Mthethwa, tweeted after the eruption of protests that, “Schools should not be used as a platform to discourage students from embracing their African identity” (NPR, http://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2016/09/06/492417635/a-ban-on-black-hairstyles-raises-deeper-issues-about-race). Black students have also recounted experiences in which their teachers and peers described their dreadlocks as “bird’s nests”.
One student said natural hair was being criminalized, stating, “You’re in fear when you go to school because you know you will be policed,”(The Guardian, https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/aug/31/south-african-students-speak-out-ban-afro-hair-pretoria-school).
#StopRacismAtPretoriaGirlsHigh hit home for many Americans, myself included, as issues of black beauty and empowerment have plagued our culture in the United States. The issue of wearing naturally Afro- textured hair in particular is one that has affected my confidence and feelings of self- worth for much of my life. I made the decision to come to South Africa to study in July of 2016. Seeing #StopRacismAtPretoriaGirlsHigh on social media one month later prompted me to think about the ways in which racism continues to persist in South Africa. I remained curious to hear about the experiences of students at these newly desegregated schools.
Last week when I visited Durban Girls College, the faculty informed me that their hair code is currently under revision. It appears as though South African institutions may not be keeping up with the social transformations that the nation has undergone.
Despite the small victory of the students at Pretoria Girls, the girls at historically white schools still seem to be the ones who must assimilate into the preexisting culture of the school, as the schools are doing little to adapt to the changing demographics and social climates.
March 3, 2017
Mercado Central market serves as economic hub for over a century
A cashew vendor poses with his merchandise at the Marcado Central market in Maputo, Mozambique. Built around 1900, the market is known as the bazaar of the city. Basic goods including fruits, vegetables, spices, and more are sold there, along with several varieties of cashews, of which Mozambique is one of the largest producers in the world. As one of the oldest markets of its size in the country, many unemployed Mozambicans have turned to the informal trade industry within Marcado Central to support their livelihoods in times of economic distress. The market served as an important economic port for Mozambicans during the country’s civil war and it continues to do so today for the country’s producers and vendors.
White Girl Walks into a Shebeen
People keep making me feel like I should be afraid. It began five months ago in North America when I decided to study in Durban, a place I barely knew besides some shallow knowledge of Apartheid. As a documentarian and student journalist, I tend to be drawn to the unknown. I have always been impulsively curious; in fifth grade my teacher even told me to stop asking questions.
So I yearned to learn more, outside of the required readings. I engaged everyone around me, even my dentist originally from Cape Town, to hear their perceptions of SA. Some were convinced I was entering a death trap and most farewells were tagged with an emphasized “Be careful.” One friend only said “You know Johannesburg has the highest murder rate in the world, right?” Fortunately, I listened through a filter. Most of these people had never set foot in SA and as Tequila Johnny, an employee at the hostel we stayed in during our first nights in Durban, explains, “People can be gullible if they’ve never been anywhere else.”
South Africa was in turmoil during Apartheid. The country was governed by a system of white supremacy and drenched in egregious violence and extremely high death tolls. But while this is an important part of SA’s history and racial oppression is still prevalent, Apartheid’s violence is in fact history, and SA is arguably moving forward. When I finally spoke to my fellow black African and black South African friends at my college before I left for Durban, the extremity of the opinions held by mostly white Americans came to light. I felt like I would be accepted into Durban’s warm community. One friend coolly replied to my fervent questions, “You will love it and they will welcome you.” These opposing perceptions are not surprising. People tend to be socialized to believe stereotypes of people and places outside of their bubbles. But what I am most surprised about is that perceptions about violence within USA and South Africa vary greatly. On a micro level, perspectives of the safety of Cato Manor, where I now live, fluctuate among black South Africans.
From the 1950s to the 1990s, Cato Manor was a center of political unrest. In the mid 1950s Chief Luthuli, the first African to be awarded the Nobel Peace Prize and president of the ANC, linked the struggles in Cato with the struggles against Apartheid. But Cato is much more than the violence, for it has a vibrant history. The trade unionist George W. Champion saw Cato as a “place where Durban natives (Africans) could breathe the air of freedom.” Today, I can see these inhalations, and I breathe it myself. Cato Manor is full of life, with primary schools, a market, a clinic, a multi-purpose center, and more developments underway. In my area, Masxha, children run up and down the street, everyone knows each other, young adults party in the bar around the corner from my home, and the people laugh from the bottoms of their souls. I take frequent walks with my neighbors and every few seconds there is a wave, an aunty or uncle walking by, or a hug and a friend wondering where they have been the past two days.
My first night on Florida Road I met a group of wealthy young black South African men. When I told them I was staying in Cato Manor, they were confused. One inquired, “Why is a white girl in Cato?” Another told me that I would soon be robbed by drug addicts. I pushed back and explained that the majority of the community knows and respects my homestay grandmother, Nana, and would never do such a thing. He replied, “It doesn’t matter. Eventually when they get desparate they will come. And grandmothers get raped all the time in Cato.” Just like with my white family members back home, I did not accept these extreme views. I may take them into account, but do not let them determine my behavior. Nana has told me that she feels safe in Cato. She sometimes leaves the house with the doors wide open and always hangs our laundry to dry in the front yard.
Bryan Stevenson, author of “Just Mercy,” believes that the key to mercy and understanding is proximity. These young men are not from Cato, but from more wealthier suburban neighborhoods, and are out of touch with the realities of Masxha. It seems that they are hung up on its past. I took a walk with my neighbor Tarry and told him about these young men. He was also in shock that they were black and held these perceptions. He shook his head and replied, “The robberies don’t happen here,” and explained how this community looks out for its own. He said, “Someone is always watching you.” Someone is always looking out for me in Cato. I can feel it. And the more time I spend here, the more I sit down and talk to the people around me, the more I feel at home. So people tell me I should be afraid of the shebeen (a local bar around the corner), the men, and Cato. But I am not afraid. I have found the more I push myself into discomfort, or into the places people tell me to be afraid of, the less afraid I am.
Two nights ago I walked into a shebeen with some local friends and sat down for a while. I relaxed with a circle of older Zulu men. They said I was the first white student to do so. The night turned out to be one of the best times I have had in Durban. We laughed, danced, and shared political views. In the midst of our conversation, one of them grabbed my wrist, held it next to his, and said, “Same blood.”
I now pass by the shebeen and look forward to greeting my new friends. This was a place I was terrified to walk past my first night in Cato. So why do the young men I met on Florida Road still hold their negative perceptions? Maybe they have just not actually spent enough time in Masxha. Although they are from Durban, they perpetuate the oppressive stereotypes of South African men. While it is important to recognize history and possible dangers, we cannot be afraid to live. I do not know much about where I am, but I do know that in order to disrupt my own fears and prejudices, and to take advantage of my time here, I will continue to close the distance, walk into my discomfort (definitely some more bars), and continue to find and revel in the truth.
Political Correctness: United States vs. South Africa
Hearing my Zulu homestay sister refer to the characters on soapies as, “the coloured girl” or “the Indian guy” was both freeing and refreshing. I witnessed the absence of political correctness after my first few days here. A feeling of liberation fell over me. My entire life I have been told to never refer to someone by their race or ethnicity. Of course in the closed confines of my black household we would talk about people and race, but my parents always made it clear to me that that kind of discourse did not leave our home. And aside from conversations I held with my black friends exclusively, that kind of talk never did leave my home. I would never dare make my white friends feel uncomfortable by talks of race and color. I am a minority in America. The thought of excluding others sickened me, and I swore by being politically correct. However, I sometimes felt like I was censoring myself by talking around race. I would watch my white friends do the same, dancing around saying, “that black kid in the class”, by instead resorting to, “that kid with the glasses”, and then I would ask, “Which one?”, leading them to make the dreadful decision of ending the dance and specifying the student’s race. As long as no one is being discriminated against or marginalized, describing someone by their ethnicity is fine. Nevertheless, the dance around color continues.
As a culture we’ve become afraid to offend, demonstrate prejudice, perpetuate stereotypes, and marginalize others. With our racial history in the United States, these fears of discriminating against others are understandable. They are especially real for those perceived to be in a position of power, namely white Americans. In order to avoid offense and embarrassment, many resort to practicing political correctness. Although political correctness can combat discrimination and exclusion, at times it can get in the way of the truth. The paradox is that we strive to be inclusive, while also valuing freedoms of speech and expression. The tension between the two is evident in America, however it appears to be less of an issue in South Africa. Although South Africa’s racial history is just as grave as that of the U.S., South Africans, especially blacks, seldom go out of their way to be what Americans would consider politically correct. Today, South Africa has developed a culture in which people are free to say what they mean without being reprimanded. Perhaps they’ve got it right. Although the bluntness may be uncomfortable for foreigners, South Africans don’t fear what they say. Still, the issue with political correctness in South Africa, or lack thereof, is the fine line between being honest, and causing offense. While they’ve got freedom of expression down pat, lack of political correctness in South Africa may be reinforcing stereotypes and marginalization that hinder progression in their changing culture.
Just as I thought I could get used to this PC- free society, I had a conversation with my homestay sister about Asian cuisine. Scarfing down the Thai food I’d order at the mall, I asked my sister if she wanted to try some. The face she made at me indicated she was not interested. I then asked her if she liked Chinese food, trying to make a connection to something more familiar, and she stated, “The only Chinese food I like is sushi”. After laughing out loud, I teased her, “Sushi is Japanese, not Chinese”, she looked back at me unamused and said, “Same thing”. While I know that her statement was not meant to be malicious, I couldn’t help the eerie feeling that came over me. This incident stuck with me, and it became clear to me that while political correctness can often censor what we mean, it can keep us in check with our ignorance. Benignly referring to someone by race is harmless, but it’s important to stick to social norms. For instance, when referring to a group of people, it is imperative to use the terms that the group has deemed fit. An article about political correctness from the Economist points to the example, “Coloured is a common term in South Africa for people of mixed race; it is not considered derogatory. Elsewhere it may be”. There needs to be a balance. Always being mindful is very important.
Freedom of expression is an essential aspect of any democracy. However, in a country with a bloody history that continues to deal with issues of reconciliation, practicing elements of political correctness is still necessary. While it may appear as though South Africans are free from political correctness, in reality, racial identity may be so embedded in society that people cannot escape it. The ‘Rainbow Nation’ has made great strides in becoming a country that belongs to all who live in it, but society still has a long way to go to reach inclusion.
Alexa Cole, SIT
The 2017 State of the Nation Address: A tale of South African — and American? — politics
The events surrounding President Jacob Zuma’s 2017 State of the Nation Address on Thursday provided South Africans a viewing experience even more dramatic than Mzansi Magic’s “Isibaya” soap opera. This event was quite a spectacle, as Democratic Alliance (DA) and Economic Freedom Front (EFF) MPs — most notably from EFF leader Julius Malema — delayed Zuma’s speech with 78 minutes of interruptions and points of order, according to a Huffington Post recap. The evening turned quickly violent, with punches thrown during the removal of EFF members from Parliament on Thursday. This chaotic nature of the event continued with the illegal use of pepper spray onto members of the public.
While the evening’s events were initially surprising, delving into the motivations behind the spectacle provides an interesting view into the parallel nature of the current state of both South African and American politics. The apparent extreme levels of polarization across party lines seemed to permeate the event on Thursday, with MPs from the DA and EFF speaking out against Zuma and the ANC as a whole in a similar manner to the American Democratic party’s opposition to many of the policies of U.S. President Donald Trump at a time when political polarization in the United States is reaching unprecedented levels.
While the tactics within the RSA Parliament and US Congress may be a bit different, Malema’s removal on Thursday sparked an immediate connection to legislative theatrics in the United States such as Sen. Elizabeth Warren’s (D-MA) official silencing during the confirmation of Jeff Sessions as attorney general. The content of Zuma’s speech continued to mark many interesting parallels between contemporary political issues within our two nations ranging from racial income disparity to student debt and tuition assistance programs.
From this event, it is clear that the news of the nation will provide not only an interesting perspective into South Africa’s most pressing political and social issues but also into my own country.
News of the Day: January 26, 2017
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